Fashion today moves faster than ever before. With design houses creating countless collections each year and new trends coming and going quicker than the seasons they were produced in, it can be hard to know whether what you buy will last the distance. But investment buying isn’t just about expensive purchases that you hope will see you through the years; it's also about buying pieces that you won’t throw away after a few wears because they no longer feel relevant.
New digital clothing brand Farnol wants to remedy this. Launching with 100 pieces — 50 for men, 50 for women — the retailer's ethos is seasonless style, with minimalist basics in shades and silhouettes that are made to be built upon. Think: cashmere knitwear, Oxford shirts, waterproof jackets, and Breton striped tees. Not only does Farnol ’s offering seek to simplify shopping, it insists that building a long-lasting wardrobe isn’t just for those with plenty to spend. In keeping with competitors like H&M and Uniqlo, prices start at £15 for a T-shirt and go up to £138 for a cashmere dress (though prices are in pounds, the store ships worldwide).
“There are shopping habits which promote the over-consumption of products that, after not too long, are discarded. We just thought this needed to be changed, be that through a change in style or a matter of poor quality,” co-creator Gareth Olyott explains. “We tackle the issue properly by offering both timeless styles for all seasons and great quality pieces that are affordable. We’re trying to rewrite what people think about quality essential products that last and the prices associated with that. We make it possible for everybody to buy.”
But why did Farnol’s founders decide to launch now, a time when the online fashion market feels oversaturated? “There are so many fashion brands out there, more than ever before, making the market the most competitive it’s ever been,” founder Mitchel Galvin-Farnol says. “This is exactly why we started Farnol, to simplify the shopping experience and offer the key styles and key colors that complete the wardrobe.” Mitchel is the brains behind streetwear brand NICCE, which currently has an Instagram following of 103k; he cites the label as the reason for Farnol. “It’s where I gained all my experience and is what led me to wanting to create something new, outside of logo brands, direct for the consumer — no middle men, no buyers or wholesalers.”
While the site’s lookbook images leave a lot to be desired — minimalist needn't mean overly basic — the pieces themselves are well-made, timeless, and great additions to any wardrobe, regardless of personal style. The aesthetic of the brand was one of the first decisions to be made, Olyott says. “The minimalism was a natural go-to for us. There’s an air of simplicity that we want to come through in everything. This allows for layering in the colder months and stripping it back when we have warmer seasons. The thing is, the products tend to be the same, just worn differently. Our hack to this rule is to drop in seasonal colors to offer something a little more relevant and exciting.”
“Our starting point is always looking for the best fabric we can source that will give us the best garment in the final stage,” Galvin-Farnol explains. “The essence of the collection is that it’s accessible quality, so we’re always striving to find the right balance between cost and quality. We’ve delivered on using organic or sustainable fabrications where possible, with a range that boasts 100% cotton, both pima and organic, ethically produced 100% cashmere, 100% cotton twill, and YKK zippers for quality and durability.” The clothes are designed in London but made in Nepal — so are the people making the clothes being treated and paid fairly? “When starting, we did so with corporate responsibility at the heart of the brand. Taking this very seriously, we work with the likes of Sedex [a global non-profit that shares data on supply chains to ensure ethical practices] to support our factories to ensure all workers are paid and treated fairly,” he adds.
With fashion proving to be more wasteful and damaging for our planet every day — in 2015, the fashion industry consumed enough water to fill 32 million Olympic-size swimming pools — stripping back our wardrobe can only be a good thing. “Think twice before buying — think about whether you really need something,” Galvin-Farnol says. “I tend to find styles and cuts I like and stick with them, adding a variation of colors but not buying for the sake of it.” And that's the basis of Farnol, which will drop seasonal shades of the same cuts and styles throughout the year. “We’ve created a route to buying with purpose to minimize consumption,” Olyott adds. Mindful shopping for affordable basics? Put that simply, the mighty challenge of making your wardrobe more sustainable doesn’t seem so scary.
Modern Money Matters is Refinery29 and Chase's exploration of what the modern American family really looks like — from starting a family to moving — and what it actually costs to make it all happen. In 40% of U.S. households, women are the primary breadwinner. To find out more about how women are taking control of their financial power,click here.
The path to motherhood isn't one standard, cookie-cutter experience (seriously, we know) — and because not everyone gets there the same way (if at all), it's important to buck with convention and find a lifestyle that works for you. In partnership with Chase, we sat down with single mom Amanda Freeman, the founder and CEO of SLT, to find out how she learned to build a life that works for her — finances and family included. Get inspired by her journey, ahead.
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The internet — social media in particular — has made the beauty industry more democratic than ever before. Premium products and treatments are no longer reserved for ladies who lunch or the mega wealthy; brands like ColourPop and The Ordinary have made cutting-edge makeup and skin care an easily-accessible staple. And now, high-quality hair care is no longer simply categorized into luxury vs. what you can actually afford. In 2018, the beauty lines are blurred, and you can get high-end products at every price range — not just at upscale salons.
One brand that's been way ahead of the curve is Nexxus, which has been delivering luxury hair products to the mass market for almost four decades. With products ranging from $3.99 (for a single-use hair mask) to $21.99 (for a heavy-duty reconstructive treatment), Nexxus earned its cult status thanks to a philosophy that puts protein at the center of the quest for healthy hair. It was one of the first brands to take stylist-approved products from the salon chair to the drugstore. But how has the company managed its seamless transition from professional-only use to available to everyone?
"Nexxus is committed to preserving the integrity of the brand under the guidance and co-creation of innovative formulas in the laboratory and in the salon, working with some of the best hair-care scientists and hairstylists in the industry," Nexxus Global Creative Director Kevin Mancuso tells us. "This allows us to study hair on a molecular level and determine the specific proteins for specific damages that will be included in our ranges. High-quality active ingredients are used in our salon-professional formulations and, with the backing of [parent company] Unilever, we’re able to make them available at retail stores."
The brand cites the internet and digital media as instrumental in the globalization of haircare, too: "It has brought consumers and professionals together, creating access to a level of knowledge and transparency," Mancuso explains. "Everyone has access to information about what works and what doesn't, what’s fake and what’s real. YouTubers can demo products on their hair the day they hit the market — sometimes even before to create buzz. For me, I get contacted by followers through my social media all the time to ask about Nexxus products. We’ll talk over direct message, they can send me videos or images of their hair, and I can prescribe the perfect regimen. It has allowed for interaction unlike ever before."
Alongside social-media communication, the brand offers an online diagnostic tool to help you find the right products for your hair type, bringing the tailored treatment of a salon to your home — another way in which haircare has become democratized. Find Your Formula uses brand studies of hair DNA to target a customer's specific issue, from repair to hydration, before recommending a range to suit everything from dehydration to thinning.
It's not just the demand for personalized products aimed at individual needs that has opened up luxury hair care to the masses. When we're all living at a faster pace, time-saving beauty is more important than ever. "Women have the desire to get professional results themselves, and to experience salon-inspired ingredients and products within the realms of their own home," says Tresemmé Brand Manager Grace Buck. "We are living in a world of constant time-saving solutions, where the demand for instant results is seeping into every corner of our lives. As such, hair care brands are innovating formulas and creating products that deliver professional results from salon to shelf, reaching this consumer through the [mass-market] touchpoint."
Tresemmé's latest launch focuses on biotin, a B vitamin and ingredient once reserved for salon use. Using insight from a consumer panel, the brand created a range rich in the hair-nourishing vitamin, topping it off with a proprietary technology called Pro Bond Complex, which is said to help restore broken bonds caused by damage and reinforce the protein structure of each hair strand — in a process that Buck describes as "helping repair hair from the inside out." At $4.99, the Biotin + Repair 7 Instant Recovery Mask is far cheaper than many of its mass-market counterparts — and delivers better, too, repairing dull, damaged hair without a salon booking in sight.
Now more than ever, it looks like beauty brands are listening to the customer, whether through in-salon feedback, conversations on social media, or online product reviews, and are addressing our main concerns in their new launches, from no-time-for-an-appointment speed and ease to affordable industry-quality products to use at home. As Peter Bailey, Unilever's European R&D Manager, says, "Now, the critical thing is being able to link real consumer insight with the appropriate technology. This allows us to give our consumers professional quality results at home — putting pro performance in their hands every day."
On Tuesday, a 39-year-old woman named Nasim Aghdam shot and injured four people at YouTube's headquarters in San Bruno, CA, before shooting and killing herself.
When examining active shootings between 2000 and 2013, the FBI found that just six out of 160 attacks (3.8%) involved female shooters. A Secret Service study of mass violence in the U.S. last year found 28 incidents, including the country-music concert massacre in Las Vegas — all of which were committed by men.
Investigators have not publicly announced a motivation for Aghdam's actions, but police and family said she was angry because she thought YouTube may have been censoring her channel, and she herself had complained that YouTube was filtering her content.
A disturbing number of people on Twitter — we won't name or link to any of them so as not to give them attention they don't deserve — decided that this horrific incident is a good time to invoke "toxic femininity." Fox News host Tucker Carlson once used the phrase, too, on a segment questioning the validity of the term "toxic masculinity" following the school shooting in Parkland, FL.
What they're doing is trying to discredit the necessary and overdue public conversation about toxic male behavior happening in America. It's nonsensical and sad at best. But it serves a purpose: This rare female shooter — a PETA-loving, vegan one, at that! — affirms this group's cherished internalized misogyny. It also lets them ignore a deeply entrenched problem in American society; that men are taught to convey strength and not confide their emotions, and people often suffer for it.
"So when is America gonna address the toxic femininity that led to YouTube’s headquarters getting shot up huh?" one person tweeted.
Why is no one discussing this? Because, quite simply, it's not a thing. "I have never heard the term and it makes no sense," said Katherine Newman, PhD, a sociologist at the University of Massachusetts, Amherst. "I cannot imagine any way in which this incident was provoked by a challenge to the shooter’s femininity. It sounds more like a play on words and it isn’t conceptually appropriate in my view."
In her book Rampage:The Social Roots of School Shootings, Dr. Newman discusses the origins of male violence.
"For boys, the social image that links masculinity to violence, guns, and the sadly admired image of the anti-hero is a distinctive map for attracting attention and social acceptance by peers," Dr. Newman told Refinery29. "This is not an image that encompasses girls. School shooters are trying to solve a social-image problem, and the maps popular culture provides for boys lead in this violent direction."
In other words, violent men are responding to a "cultural script" that teaches them masculinity means violence, she said. And this hurts women. The major connection between most mass shooters is that they exhibit anger and violent tendencies toward women: Nikolas Cruz reportedly threatened girls with rape, Austin Rollins shot his girlfriend in the head because she broke up with him, and the list goes on.
On average, women are far less likely to commit homicide than men. They only commit about 10 to 13% of all homicides in the U.S. While men committed 88 mass shootings between 1982 and October 2017, women only committed two. On top of that, women suffer a disproportionate amount of sexual assault and intimate-partner violence: One in five women is raped, compared to one in 71 men — and those are just the reported cases. According to a report from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, over half of murdered women are killed by romantic partners.
The fact that the shooter was a woman should not distract from the scary reality that in the U.S., it's all too easy for a person who wants to commit a violent act to get their hands on a firearm. That's what deserves to be tweeted incessantly — not some made-up term.
The anticipation for Cardi B 's debut album, Invasion of Privacy, was high before (like, trending topic high) — but it's at a fever pitch now, thanks to her "Bartier Cardi " music video. It's the perfect blend of hood and haute couture, and contains SO much good glam, too. But with hairstylist Tokyo Stylez on the wigs and makeup artist Erika La Pearl on the beat, what else would you expect?
Because Cardi is dressed in vintage Dior and dripping in diamonds, you'd think that her makeup would be just as expensive. "I still prefer my drugstore finds," La Pearl tells Refinery29. "People are sending me all kinds of stuff, but I find myself hitting up the makeup aisle all the time." That accessibility is one of (many) reasons why the world can't stop talking about the beautiful Bronx native. Get the exclusive breakdown of her music video looks, ahead.
It's one thing to get worked up when your go-to mascara or lipstick is discontinued. It's an entirely different story when your favorite beauty brand appears to have disappeared completely — without a word of warning. That's what fans think happened to cult indie makeup company Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics.
Followers of the vegan, cruelty-free line — best known for its highly-pigmented Lip Tars — were alarmed when the brand shut down its website and most of its social media pages seemingly overnight this week. Even co-founder and CEO David Klasfeld's LinkedIn page is wiped clean. Just a couple weeks prior on March 20, the brand listed a $10-or-less flash sale on all products, which might have indicated an imminent closure, Racked reports.
We went to the company's brick-and-mortar store on the Lower East Side in Manhattan , which is still listed as "open" on Google and Yelp, and the location was completely vacant and chained off. A sales associate at the neighboring store, who asked to remain anonymous, claims that OCC closed up shop on April 1. No word yet on whether that closure is temporary or permanent.
While there has been no official statement from the brand and representatives did not respond to our requests for comment, the company's website does say this: "Our website is temporarily offline, in the interim, shop OCC at Riley Rose, Urban Outfitters & Nordstrom!" OCC also directed customers with existing orders to email them directly at info@occmakeup.com. Makeup artist Kevin James Bennett posted twice on Instagram, saying it appeared the company had closed and thanking the brand for its contributions to the community.
We've reached out to OCC, as well as the listed retailers that carry the brand, and will update this post as soon as we have more information. In the meantime, we suggest stocking up on those Lip Tars while you still can — and don't forget to tell them you love them.
Fiction has the unique power to catapult the armchair travelers among us into foreign lands: be they historical, fantastical, or maybe just really nice beaches somewhere. But sometimes, it feels really good to read about a woman with a 9-to-5 who puts office creamer in her coffee just like we do or has to put up with rude customers because they're friends of the restaurant owner.
So why do we like to read about working women even after we clock out for the day? Perhaps it's the same reason we like to read people's Money Diaries: It's minutiae voyeurism. The commiseration and sigh of relief that comes from reading about a woman who had a bad day at the office like you did. We spend most of our awake hours working, and they are ripe with opportunities for storytelling. Career fiction turns the mundane nature of work into something fantastical: where anything can happen, from after-hours coworker hookup triangles to assistant-run money embezzlement schemes. The books about your industry are even more fun to read with industry-specific inside jokes on page, and it's fun to compare how they measure up to real life.
Plus, with corporate America being male-dominated, it's refreshing to read stories about protagonists — coders, writers, assistants — who are (or become) strong, dynamic, not-to-be-reckoned-with women in the workplace. Long gone are the female ingenues of novels past. There's a new generation of fiction depicting women in their careers, juggling work-life balance just like the rest of us.
Ahead, a list of our favorite novels about working women.
Today, Cynthia Nixon had her first TV interview since announcing her run for governor of New York on The Wendy Williams Show. After the opening niceties were exchanged, the very first question Williams asked Nixon had nothing to do with the MTA subway traffic or public school funding; rather, it was about her hair.
In fact, it takes four minutes for Williams to ask Nixon about her run for office. The time before that is used to explain why the actress no longer looks like Miranda Hobbes, her red-haired character on Sex and the City(a few minutes more are dedicated to discussing a scene in the SATC movie). We'd like to say we're surprised, but we learned long ago that this line of questioning is to be expected for women in politics.
In November 2015, in the midst of the presidential election, Donald Trump made Hillary Clinton's hair a topic of conversation while appearing on Mark Levin's radio show. “She has a new hairdo, did you notice that today?” Trump asked Levin, and the two proceeded to discuss whether her hair was a wig. "I've never seen Hillary with that hairdo," Trump replied. "I think that's an okay thing to say."
A handful are so insulting we won't even acknowledge them. Frankly, this shit is tired. As for us, should we find ourselves in a room with Nixon, we'll be too busy asking about her plans to fix the ancient subway system, champion minorities, and invest in renewable energy to even notice her blowout or lipstick.
Tel Aviv is a beautiful rarity with a look and feel that makes it unlike any other city in the world. The micro-metropolis on the Mediterranean has a special place in my heart, first and foremost because it's home, but also because it's complex: It's been influenced by both Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cultures, and the blending of the two make Tel Aviv an inspiring and interesting place to visit and explore. With its location on the crux between Africa, Asia, and Europe, you can easily travel to and from it, absorb influences abroad, and return home with new ideas that are easily implemented into its cultural fabric.
On a less existential level, Tel Aviv's dense urban composition is filled with innovative art galleries, beautiful Bauhaus architecture, a nonstop, sleepless nightlife scene, and arguably some of the best restaurants in the world. Any visitor will be enchanted by the charming streets of Neve Tzedek — which many call the Soho of Tel Aviv — and the powerful energy in Jaffa, a biblical port city with more than 4,000 years of history. While its landscape captivates, it's the glowing warmth, openness, and excitability of the city's denizens, however, that truly make it a can't miss destination.
STAY
Hotel Montefiore I adore this 12-key boutique hotel for both its obsessive eclectic-meets-contemporary design influences and its chic restaurant. Book a table for breakfast, lunch, or dinner for a delectable meal and the most robust wine and cocktail menu in town. The vibe is always lively; a place to see and be seen. Hotel Montefiore, Montefiore Street 36, Tel Aviv-Yafo 66883; +972-3-564-6100.
Poli House I can't get enough of the perfect sunsets from the Poli House rooftop, a Bauhaus building brought to life through restoration and bold designs by Karim Rashid. A few more highlights: The cocktail list at this hotel bar is superb, the pool is heated year-round, and it overlooks the bustling Nahalat Binyamin Street, which is home to Tel Aviv’s garment district and hosts a bi-weekly design and crafts fair. Plus, the hotel is situated at the nexus of Allenby Street, a colorful artery of the city that reflects Tel Aviv both old and new, and the delicious Carmel outdoor food market. Poli House, 1 Nahalat Binyamin Street, Tel Aviv 6343220; +972-3-710-5000.
Efendi Hotel Just outside of Tel Aviv is another stunning 12-room hotel in the Old City of Akko. Efendi Hotel is a palatial experience: rooms with 40-foot high ceilings, cloud-like beds, and an original Turkish Hammam. Nearby, a fish and seafood-lover's paradise for the taking: Uri Buri restaurant. The hotel is just a 90-minute drive from Tel Aviv up the Mediterranean coast, a journey that will make you feel like you're more in Italy or California than the Middle East. Efendi Hotel, Louis IX St. P.O.B 2503, Old Acre 24124; +972-74-729-9799.
EAT & DRINK
Yom Tov Deli This local gem in the Levinsky Market is the place for authentic antipasti, salads, cheese, and some of the best imported and local culinary goods to be found in Israel. Many of my chef friends purchase hard-to-find items from this deli, which is run by third-generation owners, brothers Yomi and Etan Levi. (I strongly recommend the roasted beet salad, Kashkaval cheese, or smoked tuna for a quick lunch that packs all of the delicious taste you could want in one bite!) Yom Tov Deli, Levinski 43, Tel Aviv; +972-54-682-2020.
Brut Wine Bar The salmon sashimi, salads, and pasta dishes at this quaint spot near Rothschild Boulevard are pretty much perfect. Add a glass of Pelter Savignion Blanc or Chablis, post up outside, and allow passerby to marvel at each dish on your table. Brut Wine Bar,Nahalat Binyamin Street 36, Tel Aviv-Yafo; +972-3-510-2923.
Herzl 16 Herzl 16 is a new address in Tel Aviv. Situated in an open-air Italian-style courtyard in the heart of the city, the minimalist restaurant and music venue is an all-hours culinary hub and nightlife spot with some of the top DJs in the city spinning tunes into the wee hours. Herzl 16, Tel Aviv-Yafo; +972-3-554-4300.
Blue Sky Located at the top of the Carlton Tel Aviv hotel is Blue Sky, a panoramic restaurant by Israeli-celebrity chef Meir Adoni. Enjoy Adoni’s delicious twists on Middle Eastern classics while gazing over the entire city skyline and beautiful “White City” Bauhaus buildings of Tel Aviv. Blue Sky, 10 Eliezer Peri Street, Tel Aviv 6357325; +972-3-520-1818.
SHOP
Israël Abou Gregory Abou, as he's also known, is a Parisian implant with a multi-sensory concept store that has an affinity for the minute details. From home furnishings and a well-curated selection of clothes from Homecore, along with local and international fashion designers, Israël Abou brings all the best Tel Aviv fashion under one roof. Israël Abou, Shar'abi Street 2, Tel Aviv-Yafo; + 972-52-636-3844.
Jaffa Flea Market If you're looking for a part of Tel Aviv that is both relevant during the day and night, the Jaffa flea market area is the place. The market hosts some of the best antique and vintage shops in the city and is perfect for browsing or purchasing (negotiation recommended). The area lights up in the evening with charming restaurants, bars, and galleries, plus some of the best people-watching in town. Olei Zion Street, Tel Aviv-Yafo.
Neve Tzedek Neighborhood Neve Tzedek is comparable to Soho with charming boutiques, jewelry studios, cafes, and organic juice bars. Nestled away in the neighborhood is the Suzanne Dellal Center, a performing arts center home to the world-famous Batsheva Dance Company.
DO
Yoko Kitahara Spa A taste of Japan in Old Jaffa, Yoko Kitahara is a tucked-away spa center overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. I'm a huge fan of the aromatherapy treatments that restore my body and mind after a long week (or month) in the studio and traveling from city to city during Fashion Week. Upon entering the Ottoman-era building in Jaffa, guests are treated with a warm foot bath and buckwheat tea in an environment that immediately puts you at ease. Yoko Kitahara Spa, 5 Kikar Kedumim Street, Tel Aviv, 6803784; +03-605-8339.
Gordon Gallery For fans of contemporary art, Gordon Gallery is amongst the best in Tel Aviv. The gallery’s new location extends the thriving Tel Aviv art scene to the South of the city. It hosts rotating exhibits with international and Israeli-powerhouse names, like Louise Bourgeois and Ron Arad. Gordon Gallery, 95 Ben Yehuda Street, Tel Aviv; +972-3-524-0323.
EagerTourist Street Photography Tour I love film photography and architecture in Tel Aviv, and anything that combines the two is a worthwhile experience. Eager Tourist offers incredible workshops led by a local photographer who guides to some of the city's best hidden gems, from Bauhaus-lined streets to obscure neighborhoods. Eager Tourist Street Photography Tour, 12 Geula Street, Tel Aviv, 63304; +972-054-811-0476.
Maya Reik is a fashionable Tel Avivian who has a pulse on the best spots to eat, sleep, drink, shop, and relax in the Mediterranean city. She is the founder of Marei 1998, a sophisticated womenswear line run from her Jaffa studio. Her designs have been featured in Vogue , The New York Times , and more.
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London-born, New York-based designer and DJ Harley Viera-Newton has forged a career out of dressing our favorite women in hyper-feminine silk dresses: think Selena Gomez in a daisy-printed frock, Suki Waterhouse in a white and red slip with a matching neck scarf, and Taylor Hill in a Riviera-worthy green tie-waisted number. Since 2016, her vintage-inspired label has become instantly recognizable and highly sought after. Now, we're being treated to a line of shoes that go seamlessly with her ditsy prints and ladylike cuts.
Collaborating with footwear brand Butterfly Twists, Viera-Newton has designed three different shoe styles in a variety of patterns that look just like those on her dresses. The Carla is a platform espadrille in the designer's signature gingham (offered in light pink and blue), complete with a sweet ribbon ankle tie; the Charlotte is a classic pastel ballet flat that comes in nude, bubblegum pink, and sky blue; and the Olivia is a mesh ballet flat featuring embroidered hearts and a capped toe, with options in black and red.
"The idea behind the collaboration was to add my personal HVN twist to existing Butterfly Twist silhouettes," Viera-Newton tells Refinery29. "I chose styles that I think can become summer staples in your closet. You don’t have to sacrifice comfort for style, which is key. These shoes are so comfortable you can run around in them all day."
But comfort isn't the only thing these shoes have going for them. They're also immensely versatile. "I think the Charlotte flats are great paired with airy summer dresses," she says of styling the shoes. "You can pair the pink or blue ballet flats with dresses in corresponding colors, or you can opt for the more subtle pair that go with absolutely everything. And I love the gingham paired with denim, especially denim skirts or overalls."
And while you can follow Viera-Newton's tips for how to wear the flats, they also (unsurprisingly) look great with just about every HVN dress available right now. Ahead, we've paired each of the shoes with its perfect printed partner, whether it's a spaghetti strap number or a classic shirtdress. Match made!
Influencers! They're just like us! And apparently their love for Disney is just as strong as ours — well, at least Chiara's is. Chiara Ferragni, the Italian blogger behind The Blonde Salad who deservedly ranks as an OG influencer and vocal Disney fanatic, has teamed up with the House of Mouse to design a limited-edition shoe collection launching Thursday.
Spearheading a movement of influencers transitioning into designers for their own projects-turned-full-fledged-brands, Ferragni has led the changing landscape of what "influencers" are capable of past their social media presence. After successfully heading up her own eponymous shoe line for the last few years, tapping Ferragni seems like a natural first choice for Disney to break further into the high-fashion space.
The five-piece capsule collection comes in two silhouettes, including a mule and a slip-on sneaker, which feature luxe fabrics including velvet, suede and patent leather. As for the unmistakable Disney touch, the shoes will have an array of Minnie Mouse-inspired elements, from exaggerated bows to gloved hand vignettes and a heavy dose of crystal embellishments. Retail prices will run between $300 to $470.
Ferragni, who wears a number of hats from model/influence/entrepreneur/designer/new mom (her baby is already decked out in Disney), has shown her adoration for Disney loud and proud; she even touts a Mickey tattoo on her left wrist. "My love for Mickey Mouse is no secret," Ferragni shared in a press statement. "I was excited when we decided to create a collection with Mickey's leading lady, Minnie! Her iconic style was so fun to work with, her bow, her gloves and her colors have been incorporated in our must-haves." And with her recent permanent move to L.A., we're sure a few in-person visits to Disneyland were lined up to gain inspiration for the collection.
For a peek at the entire line-up, click ahead. The Chiara x Shop Disney collection will be exclusively available via shopdisney.com on Thursday, April 5.
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You like your moisturizers silky smooth and rose-scented, your lip color in a gilded tube, and your perfume in a crystal flacon. You've always preferred the finer things in life, especially if you can only track them down online from websites with URLs ending in .fr and even more so if they're the best money can buy (or maybe it's just if they require the most money to buy).
But you're reading more and more about parabens, you saw someone on your Facebook feed share something about lead in lipstick, and the next thing you know you're Googling frantically to see if your $400 serum contains any known or suspected endocrine disruptors. What's a beauty snob to do when they want to detox their beauty routine, so to speak, without sacrificing quality... or luxury?
Actually, that's easy: Now that the clean beauty movement has spread far beyond the Whole Foods aisle (which is looking pretty great lately, by the way) and well into the prestige realm, replacing your most beloved high-end products of sadly dubious safety with greener, more natural solutions of equal extravagance, like the ones ahead, is just a matter of typing in your Amex security code. And by the way, stop calling it a detox — this is an upgrade.
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Social media is now a legitimate way of getting cast in a major fashion campaigns. “Twitter, do ya thing,” is a call-to-action of sorts, boosting certain images or campaigns to viral status and earning aspiring models exclusive contracts with Prada or cameos in Cardi B’s latest music video in the process. Or, in the case of Vivian Eyo-Ephraim, a supportive fan base in the form of ASOS shoppers.
Ephraim is a 20-year-old from Nigeria currently living in Greenwich, England. She’s studying Media Communications at the University of East London, and developed a sudden passion for modeling after "a conversation I had with my mom and sister,” she tells Refinery29. Before her career took off, she worked as an extra on Hoff De Record with David Hasselhoff, as well as hundreds of other TV shows on UK networks ITV and Channel 5. But after applying to a model search competition on Star Now, Ephraim signed with Bridge models in September 2017. Her one goal for 2018 was to work for a major United Kingdom retailer. And thanks to Twitter, she didn't just meet her goal — she was heavily praised and celebrated for it.
Customers immediately took to Twitter to applaud ASOS for photographing the dark-skinned plus-size model in a yellow bikini (you can buy the top and bottom here). “I had no idea it would go viral, but I’m so grateful and excited that so many people all over the world are supporting me,” she says. “I hope the industry sees this and makes a more positive direction in terms of inclusiveness for plus and curve models.”
When asked how she felt about people calling her the first dark-skinned plus model in the body diversity movement, Ephraim said: “It’s quite shocking that people are saying that, only because there are thousands of other black plus-size models out there. More representation is something that needs to be worked on if people still feel this way.” In February, Ashley Graham echoed this sentiment, calling for more plus-size models of color on the runway.
For Ephraim, the most important thing is about having a public platform is to help “people feel confident and celebrate themselves and their amazing bodies.” Especially because going viral isn't easy. “As a model you are putting yourself out there, so it's easy for [criticism] to feel personal. But you need to view yourself as your brand,” she says. “It’s very competitive and understand. Before you go into it, be honest and ask yourself: Are you prepared for both the lows and the highs?” Still, it's thanks to people who have come before her, like La'Tecia Thomas, that Ephraim feels like she can change the narrative to what a model — plus-size or not — looks like.
These days, there's so much information about skin care out there that the consumer has become the expert. Beauty fanatics know their retinol from their vitamin C, their AHAs from their PHAs, and their hyaluronic acid from their salicylic. But even so, it can still be hard to cut through the white noise and distinguish fact from fiction, especially when so many brands are built on reviews and Instagram likes. The ability to look past the usual PR trappings and have an open conversation with skin-care shoppers is a good thing (usually), but sometimes a dermatologist's science-backed advice is the only way to get to the crux of a skin issue.
That's exactly what led dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto, one of the United Kingdom's leading practitioners, to publish a book called The Skincare Bible. "One thing that has really struck me with the advent of social media over the last five to 10 years is that there is so much conflicting information for those wanting advice about their skin from both a medical and beauty point of view," Dr. Mahto explains. "More and more, people are turning to the internet as their first port of call for information, and one thing I was noticing in my clinics as a result of this was the amount of time, effort, and money being wasted by people on products that weren’t going to work. The Skincare Bible was an opportunity to provide quality information grounded in science, based on my role as a consultant dermatologist."
Her book (appropriately described as "Your No-Nonsense Guide To Great Skin") covers everything from finding your ideal everyday routine to how to tackle specific concerns like acne, rosacea, dark spots, and under-eye circles. It's a thorough but easy-to-read guide that's relevant to anyone of any age who's interested in skin care. Between answering specific questions (like whether there are any circumstances where a blood test could be useful for acne) and providing step-by-step regimens under "The Lazy Girl's Guide to Anti-Aging Skin Care," there's nothing Mahto doesn't cover.
Ahead of the book's launch, we asked the consultant, writer, and dermatologist about our biggest skin-care misconceptions, her clients' most common concerns, and if there's really a different between professional treatments and the kind you can pull off at home.
How did you end up working in skin care?
"I struggled a lot with my own skin as a teenager, and my first dip into skin care was probably similar to a lot of other people. I spent hours browsing [drugstore aisles], looking for a miracle face wash and spot treatments for my cystic acne. After most of my teenage years with my skin getting worse, not better, I eventually went on Accutane, which at the time literally changed my life. My skin was spot-free for the first time as a teenager, just before I went to university.
I studied medicine and also got a degree in pharmacology from Cardiff University [in Wales], and knew fairly early on that I was interested in dermatology. My acne came back over the years and I also suffered with a number of other skin issues, and specializing in skin seemed like an obvious thing to do. I found that I understood it not just from a medical perspective but also from the point of view of a patient. Having to take medicines or use creams and the significant impact that had on my daily routine, as well as my visible skin conditions affecting how I felt when I looked in the mirror, all led to my career choice.
I qualified in 2004 before deciding to apply to specialize in dermatology. I got a position in London and have now been a consultant for over five years."
How has the skin-care industry changed since you first started out?
"There are a number of things that are very different from my days as a teenager in the early 1990s. The sheer volume of products on the market is the biggest one — I remember just having Clean & Clear and Clearasil for my spots! Trends have changed, too — skin-care routines have become so much more complicated and multistep, but I remain skeptical that we need to layer so many products onto our skin. We have become much more aware of the importance of sunscreen use for preventing premature skin aging, and there's been a drive towards skin care labeled 'natural' or 'organic' as wellness has gained popularity – again, not something I think is necessarily a good thing. It leads to the misconception that these products are somehow safer or better than synthetic ones."
Skin care has become more democratic and consumer-friendly. As a trained professional, what's your view on this?
"The beauty industry needs to sell, so it benefits to be more consumer-friendly. Using influencers to promote or sell a new face cream or beauty product is the new normal, but we need to remember that often money exchanges hands for this. One of the problems this leads to is [the difficulty of] getting genuine, evidence-based advice. Most beauty products overstate or oversell the benefits they can provide."
What's the biggest misconception people have about skin care?
"There is an idea that skin-care needs to be complicated or expensive to be genuinely worthwhile. This crops up over and over again, talking to patients, family, friends, and acquaintances. It doesn't. Cheaper products can work just as well as expensive ones, and we don't need to be using complex routines in the morning or evening."
What's the biggest skin-care concern your clients come to you with?
"The top reasons I see patients are for acne, pigmentation, facial redness, and prevention of skin aging. These are all incredibly common problems faced by nearly all of us at different stages in our life, and often require the right skin care combined with medical prescriptions, and occasionally laser or injectable treatments. Being able to see one individual that can provide all of these things rather than chopping and changing practitioners is much better for the patient and treatment of their skin. It means I have a relationship of trust with my patients and continuity of their care."
In your opinion, can at-home skin care ever be as good as professional treatments?
"For those people that don’t have any specific skin problems and are blessed with 'normal' skin, most basic home skin care such as moisturizers will be adequate. However, if there is a problem with the skin, then home skin care as a general rule will work for mild concerns but will never be as effective as clinic-based treatments. The same goes for those interested in reducing skin aging; at-home skin care is not as good as professional treatments. The simplest reason for this is that clinic-based treatments are stronger than what can be sold to the general public. I see people on a daily basis in my clinic that have spent a fortune on skin care which simply is not going to work despite what the packaging says."
What are you most excited about in skin care right now?
"More brands offering products that contain active ingredients at good concentrations with a very reasonable price point. I’m not going to use any trendy buzzwords surrounding skin care as I suspect that is all they will be: trends and fads that will come and go. Sunscreen and retinol, though, aren't going anywhere."
What does the future of skin care look like?
"The way things are going, I think we'll continue to see an explosion of more and more new 'pseudoscience' products — growth factors, stem cells, microbiome manipulation, DNA testing. While the science behind these sounds plausible and exciting, we need to turn to the actual medical evidence at hand and seek the advice of a good cosmetic scientist to really prove they work. Ingredients in a lab test tube in isolation do not necessarily act in the same way when applied to human skin in the context of a cream or serum. I think we should always maintain a healthy dose of skepticism."
If there’s one person who embodies everything we try to be on a daily basis, it’s model Ashley Graham. She exudes confidence, determination, and a bold style — and it’s partly because of where she's from. In partnership with Revlon, we went on a road trip and stopped in Lincoln, Nebraska, where we asked Graham to show us where she calls home and what she would describe as her signature hometown beauty look. The city taught Graham to work hard and fight for her place, all while embracing her signature take on fashion and beauty, which always includes a pop of red lipstick. Watch above, and let this inspire you to embrace your own hometown roots.
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It's easy to fall under the spell of tarot cards: Their meanings are universal enough to apply to just about anyone, and nowadays it's easy to find and purchase a deck that fits your aesthetic to a T. But, once you decide to give them a try, how do you, you know, use them?
Tarot reader Theresa Reed tells us that it's actually quite simple to ease your way into a robust tarot practice, but there are a few tricks to making it stick. First, start small. Second, practice with clear mind. Finally, keep in mind that tarot is not a memory test.
If you're just starting out, Reed explains, don't feel like you need to go into your first reading blind. Draw a card then feel free to look it up in a tarot book or online to find its meaning. Or, if you aren't 100% clear on how to set up a certain type of spread, your reference materials almost definitely have a template for it, so consult them before laying out a dozen cards willy-nilly.
To that same end, don't try to tackle all the overarching problems in the world with a single reading. While you shuffle your deck, come up with a specific question or concern that you hope the cards will address. Reed says that practicing out of general worry or confusion will lead to a muddled and biased reading.
Ahead, we'll take a closer look at that first tip from Reed: Start small. That's your best course of action as far as creating tarot spreads (aka card formations) goes. Read on to get the lowdown on how to put your deck to use.
Hair trends come and go, but the bob is much more than a trend: It's a classic. No matter the decade, the color, the texture, or the variation — sci-fi bobs, '90s bobs, grown-out lobs — a shoulder-length cut is never a bad idea. And lately, we've been seeing a lot of air-dry enthusiasts embracing the wavy bob... with good reason. We first spotted the cut on the Louis Vuitton Fall 2018 runway, and on the tousled heads of the chicest French girls soon after that. Now, we're obsessed.
The easy, breezy style can become a full-on look without the use of hot tools, which means no heat damage and practically no effort put into your styling routine. This is where your natural texture thrives.
Because we foresee spending the rest of the spring and summer taking advantage of this low-maintenance vibe, we asked the coolest of the cool girls what they do to boost their waves, bends, curls, and spirals and let 'em fly. Ahead, the wavy bob routines you'll want to copy ASAP...
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Matching makeup trends have come, and gone, in many variations. There's matching your lipstick to your nail polish (a favorite of ours and often dubbed "matching lips and tips " in the beauty community), coordinating your eyeshadow or lip color to your outfit, and, perhaps the most on-trend right now, monochromatic makeup.
Monochromatic makeup, as the name implies, is the technique of keeping your eyes, lips, and cheeks within one shade range — and it's having a huge moment right now. To wit, everyone from Rihanna to Gigi Hadid has been hitting the red carpet sporting perfectly coordinated shades.
The best part is that it's easy to pull off. Normally rooted in beige, brown, pink, or red, it can be accomplished easily by picking a shade that looks good on your skin tone, and keeping all the other products within that color family. Not sure where to start? Simply dump out all your makeup on a flat surface and make pairs or trios. This is a great time to break into the many eye palettes you rarely use or neutral lip colors you're not sure how to wear. Or, you can just follow the tips and tricks on the following slides.
Ahead, get ready to get your monochrome on, because we've collected a handful of our favorite versions of this look from recent red carpets and broken them down for a variety of skin tones.
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“People take things way too seriously,” says Nikki Nelms, one of Hollywood’s most in-demand hairstylists, who laughs as she affixes an insect pin to the top of a model’s impressive curls. “Like, ‘Oh, this orange butterfly is so symbolic because blah blah blah. No! I just put it up here because it looks good. I’m about vibes.”
That’s Nelms’ technique in a nutshell. You’d think that the genius behind the headline-making textured looks seen on Zoë Kravitz, Janelle Monáe, and Kelly Rowland would be all about making a statement — but her approach is actually more radical because of her refusal to make a big deal about it.
“It’s literally our hair!” Nelms says. “If you think that texture is a trend, then you’re late to the party. It’s been a thing. It’s OUR thing. You wouldn’t praise someone like Kate Moss for wearing her blonde hair in a bun. So why is it shocking when we play with ours?”
The keyword here is play. We invited Nelms, who is known for her whimsical and effervescent approach to styling, to dream up eight fresh spring hairstyles using natural hair as her canvas. Paired with the season’s biggest fashion resurgence, turtlenecks, these looks stand the test of time.
Fluttery Faux Bob Nelms might not find symbolism in these butterflies, but she will spill the inspiration. “This is definitely a vibe you’d see Diana Ross do in the ‘70s, and compared with the messy curls, it’s another throwback-meets-today moment,” she says.
Kristina already has perfect spirals, so it wasn’t necessary to use any kind of definer – just a really good leave-in conditioner. Nelms did want to give her a shorter look, though, and faked a cut on Kristina with pins. She left out strategically-placed sections to create “branches” for the butterflies, which she purchased from the craft store and glued on pins.
Marc Jacobs turtleneck; Marc Jacobs Oversize Long Sleeve Cardigan in Pink, $2,300, available at Marc Jacobs; Marc Jacobs Elastic Waist Culotte in Pink, $1,100, available at Marc Jacobs; Poppy Lissiman Crystal Beth Sunglasses in Yellow, $120, available at Poppy Lissiman.
Inverted Triangle Halo For this look, Nelms saw Chavi’s sunglasses as a modern-day crown, and decided to create a hairstyle inspired by royalty.
Nelms grabbed a handful of bobby pins — heads up, you’ll want to gather a lot of them — and began to flatten the center of Chavi’s fro, layering them criss-cross style so the hair laid flat in a circle. If you’re having trouble controlling your curls or coils, try blowing out those pieces so that they’re a little bit smoother, Nelms suggests. To get that triangular shape, Nelms used an Afro pick to pull the bottom sections upward.
Prada Printed Sable Top with Feathers in Powder Pink+Petal Pink+Silver, $2,980, available at Prada; Prada Printed Sable Pants in Powder Pink+Silver, $2,620, available at Prada; Prada Two-Tone Leather Slingbacks in Chalk White+Black, $990, available at Prada; Hannah Jewett Rude Earrings, $105, available at Hannah Jewett.
Corset Twists “This is more of a medieval feel,” Nelms says of this look, citing Game of Thrones as a reference. Obviously, Zora’s got amazing hair, and Nelms didn’t want to alter her curls too much.
Zora was already washed and blow dried, so Nelms misted a bit of leave-in spray all over, scrunching it in so that the curls would be tighter closer to roots. Then, she created two flat twists side-by-side from the front of her hairline to the middle of her head, and used a needle and a silver string to stitch them together like a corset.
Mary Katrantzou Petunia Dress in Paint by Numbers Saturated, $1,919, available at Mary Katrantzou; Mary Katrantzou turtleneck; HYGGE Väri Watch in Sunset Orange, Ocean Blue, and Forest Green, $185 ($30 for Strap), available at HYGGE.
Hair-rings There were plenty of fun accessories to pull from, but none of them resonated with Nelms as much as these beaded plaits, which ended up doubling as earrings. The accessories hold special meaning to the stylist. “The same beads that everyone loved in the Solange video are the ones that Venus and Serena got teased for when they wore them on the court,” she says.
Nelms set aside two, one-inch pieces from Jewellianna's hairline (to later create the braids) and scooped the rest of her hair into a high ponytail. She misted a little bit of strong-hold hairspray all over the tail, and then picked at it with a comb so it would stick straight up like a cloud. She pulled out a couple pieces, weaved them into braids, and looped them from the base to the top.
Once she was satisfied with the updo, Nelms created a shoulder-length cornrow on each side of Jewellianna's head, stringing a few beads towards the end of each braid. Turning these braids into “earrings” was relatively simple — she just clipped the tail of the plaits right above the ears with bobby pins. Bonus points if you match the plastic beads to your makeup look, like Jewellianna did here.
Acne Studios suit; JoosTricot Solid Peach Skin Turtleneck in Club Green, $440, available at JoosTricot; Sonia Rykiel Venus Brooch, $430, available at Sonia Rykiel.
Negative Space ‘Fro The fastest way to upgrade your Afro, Nelms says, is with certain angles, shapes, and modern trinkets. “That pushes your hair from the ‘70s to the future,” she says.
To start, Nelms stretched medium-sized sections of Chavi’s hair out as far as possible by running a dryer (on the coolest setting) from roots to tips. Once she had a little more length to work with, she made a deep center part and grabbed a small chunk from her hairline to create a cornrow that ended just above her ear.
Once she finished the braided part, Nelms took two pieces of stiff cardboard and clipped them to the hair on either side of Chavi’s braid to create the “negative space." She misted the cardboard with Pump It Up, the classic styling spray, until it was damp and then let the hair set. After two minutes, she removed the cardboard and smoothed the sides and edges with a bit of styling wax (Nelms reccommends the Tancho Tique Stick). She then used an Afro pick to further perfect and mold the rounded shape.
NARS Eye Paint in Solomon Islands, $26, available at NARS
Pony Puffs When Nelms pulled out a huge bag of pom-poms, it was an instant throwback. “These were the same kind that I wore on the back of my socks when I was a kid,” she explains. If you, too, are feeling nostalgic, then grab a glue gun to tack the pom-poms to the top of a U-shaped pin. Or if you’re not in the arts and crafts mood, you can always just hit up Etsy.
To start, Nelms sectioned off some hair from Zora’s part and gathered the rest into a high ponytail with an elastic. She separated the tail in two and twisted each piece in opposite directions while wrapping them over each other to form a giant two-strand twist. She took the sectioned-off hair and smoothed it down and under the tail for an elegant side part. Next came the puffs — add as many or as few as you like, depending on your style.
Floral French Roll If this style looks old school, that was Nelms’ intention. “I always look at old pictures of my aunts and my mother,” Nelms explains. “It’s where a lot of my inspiration comes from. They were super stylish and cute, and I try to recreate things they did. I even call them for tips, like to see which direction they curled their hair.”
Nelms started by blow drying Jewellianna's hair as straight as possible without removing too much of her natural texture. Once her curls were prepped, Nelms parted her hair into two sections and then carefully rolled each section up, pinning them around the head at ear level. (Pro tip: Grab a can of hairspray and roll the hair around it, sliding it out at the end to get that hollow shape.) To ensure that the hair didn’t fall, Nelms stuck a few more U-shaped pins into the base and “froze” the look with more Pump It Up.
Wolford Viscose Pullover Turtleneck in White, $275, available at Wolford; Self-Portrait Candy Stripe Jacket, £320, available at Self-Portrait; Jennifer Fisher earrings; Julie Thevenot Contre Forme Series #6 Earring, $238, available at Julie Thevenot.
Fashion Frizz In a way, this style, along with the others, are a giant fuck you to the schoolyard bullies and snooty critics who considered cornrows "ghetto" and naps a no-no. Instead of trying to smooth out her kinks, Nelms used Kristina’s frizz as her inspiration — a theme Nelms recreates over and over again in her work.
“Everything doesn’t always have to be so precise,” Nelms explained to me, right before pulling out a few of Kristina’s pinned-back curls before she stepped in front of the camera. “And what’s funny is that this look is so effortless, but beautiful. That’s just how our curls work… ‘cause we’re magical like that.”
American University is a small campus tucked into a leafy, suburban neighborhood of Washington, D.C. Students hang out and study on the quad, which is so peaceful you almost forget you're in the nation's discordant capital. But under the surface, there's a seething anger.
The school has been the setting of racist attacks in recent years that help tell the story of an alarming rise in white nationalist recruiting on college campuses nationwide. In the most recent, in January, someone posted anti-immigrant flyers reading, "NO means NO! #MyBordersMyChoice," an unfortunate play on the pro-choice hashtag #MyBodyMyChoice, around campus. The flyers contained links to The Daily Stormer, a neo-Nazi website that advocates for the genocide of Jews.
In some ways, the free-speech debate about these types of flyers is the same one that’s been happening in American colleges for years. But in 2018, after the election of Donald Trump, and clashes over right-wing hate-mongers like Milo Yiannopoulos and Richard Spencer speaking at universities — and magnified under the lens of the internet — the stakes feel higher.
DEVELOPING: AU President Sylvia Burwell responds to anti-immigrant rights posters found on campus. “We reject hate, bigotry, intimidation in all forms.“ pic.twitter.com/SUmZgaD1Sv
Statistics confirm this. Between March 2016 and October 2017, the Southern Poverty Law Center, the nation's largest hate-group watchdog, tracked 329 flyering incidents on 241 college campuses across the U.S., most of them perpetrated by people from outside the school. They're members of groups like Vanguard America and Identity Evropa, organizations that believe white people are disenfranchised and that the U.S. should be an exclusively white country, and they are undertaking an unprecedented effort to recruit on college campuses. Flyering is a way for their new converts to show their commitment while staying anonymous. Both groups were involved in the Charlottesville rally in August 2017; James Fields, who plowed his car into a crowd, killing Heather Heyer, was seen marching with Vanguard America.
The Anti-Defamation League, which also tracks hate groups, reported a 258% growth in white supremacist recruitment efforts on college campuses between fall 2016 (41 incidents) and fall 2017 (147 incidents).
In our examination of dozens of schools, we've seen a similar scenario play out in colleges and universities from California to Texas to New York: Perpetrators put up flyers that target Black people, immigrants, or other groups. Students ask the administration to take concrete action. The administration — usually predominantly made up of white men — responds with a carefully worded statement about how the school doesn't tolerate discrimination of any sort, but doesn't take further action. Maybe there's a town hall or a roundtable. Students still feel like their true concerns aren't heard. Often, the provocations continue.
At AU, a politically active school in the nation's capital, the administration's response has been more proactive than most — at least recently. Maybe it’s because the university was the site of quite likely the most publicized racist attack on a college campus in recent years: In May 2017, senior Taylor Dumpson, who is African-American, was targeted on the day she took office as student body president when somebody hung bananas from nooses in three places on campus and scrawled messages like "Harambe bait" on them. The incident was investigated by the FBI and categorized as a hate crime. Dumpson resigned in January 2018.
The same month the #MyBordersMyChoice flyers were spotted, the university introduced its ambitious diversity and inclusion plan, which aims to invest $121 million over two years into programs like cultural-competence and bias training for all community members, hiring more diverse faculty, and support for the new Anti-Racist Policy and Research Center.
But it was right after the opening of the Anti-Racist Center in September 2017 that the university experienced more racist attacks. The night Dr. Ibram X. Kendi made a speech to introduce the center, Confederate-flag flyers with cotton stalks affixed to them that read "Huzzah for Dixie" were found on campus. Authorities said they believe the perpetrator is a white man who is about 40 years old.
Senior Zoey Jordan Salsbury told Refinery29 it was "terrifying to me as a Jewish student" that the anti-immigrant flyers were connected to The Daily Stormer, which targets Jewish people.
She’s also terrified by the apathy of some of the other students. "There are students who say it's not that big of a deal, whispering because if people know they say that it's not okay... They're mostly white students who don't have intersections with other groups." For her part, she says she tries to be supportive to peers who are part of marginalized groups, inviting people who live off-campus and are in distress to hang out in her on-campus apartment.
It’s terrifying. Even when it’s covered at my college, it’s covered as “racist flyers on campus” and only whispers of the recruiting info on the back of them. Some had the Daily Strmer’s website on the front and I had to explain to the school paper why they shouldn’t link it 🙈
Anti-Semitic incidents in the U.S. surged by almost 60% in 2017, the ADL found, due in large part to the fact that the number on college campuses nearly doubled. Colleges saw a total of 204 incidents in 2017, compared to 108 in 2016.
According to AU’s plan for inclusive excellence, only 33% of Black students and 60% of Asian and Latinx students say they feel safe on campus, compared to 71% of white students. Students of color also feel "less physically and emotionally safe than their white counterparts and see few spaces designed by and for underrepresented students to hold meetings, to study together, and to socialize." They say there is a "consistent pattern of derogatory comments" aimed at people of color and that AU is generally not responsive to student concerns around discrimination. By including these stats, the university is taking a step in the direction of addressing the issues head-on — but there is more to be done, according to students we’ve spoken with.
Romina Martin, a sophomore at AU and the president of the school's chapter of the League of United Latin American Citizens (LULAC), said she thinks the school's initial response to the flyers wasn't sufficient, which put a lot of students off. The administration, for example, didn't provide information about resources on campus like counseling that could help the community feel safe.
"A lot of the student body, we’re immigrants, our parents are immigrants. The reaction of the school made it feel like our backgrounds, our stories didn’t matter," said Martin, who moved to the U.S. from Lima, Peru, in elementary school. She also questioned why the public safety department couldn't identify and find the perpetrator. “Now they post flyers, but what are they going to do next? Are we really safe on campus?”
Dr. Fanta Aw, the Vice President of Campus Life and Inclusive Excellence (the latter part of the title was added very recently), addressed safety in an interview with Refinery29. "I think often our immediate response is to think about physical safety, but all too often we underestimate the level of emotional safety," she said. "Emotional safety comes from feeling a sense of belonging wherever you are, feeling like wherever you're walking that someone is not questioning, ‘Do you really belong here? Do you have the intellectual ability to be here?’ ... I would say that our students are reflecting...a national angst that's going on."
She spoke about what’s been called “collective trauma ” in the wake of Donald Trump’s election. "When they talk about safety, it is not just on AU campus... But it is reflective of how they feel about where things are going in the society at large, and the campus is a microcosm of that."
"Take My Trump Trash"
If students from marginalized groups in Washington, D.C., where 91% of residents voted for Hillary Clinton in the 2016 election, are seeing symptoms of post-election hostility, then at the University of South Carolina it’s a full-blown disease.
"My friend got garbage thrown at her and called, 'Take my Trump trash, n-----,'” sophomore Maya Queenan said, according to theDaily Gamecock. Queenan said this at a town hall held in the aftermath of racist flyers being found in the building that houses the African-American Studies Program one day after Martin Luther King Jr. Day this year.
The university hasn’t identified the person who posted the flyers (though officials did spot a white male in his mid-40s who they don't believe is connected to the campus), director of public relations Jeff Stensland told Refinery29, but officials have since "seen evidence that it may not be an isolated case and could be part of a larger effort by a racist group." He said to his knowledge, the university has not identified racist groups actively recruiting students.
A returning student worried about books/financial aid, a freshman's first day with a million insecure feelings. This is what we pay for. HATE POST from our fellow classmates (1rst day of Spr2018, 1 day after Martin Luther Kings day). #shameful@UofSC@HarrisPastides@wis10@WLTXpic.twitter.com/DOFYZ7znAW
Since then, Stensland said, the campus has held multiple events, including a #NotOnOurCampus rally. At this rally, university president Harris Pastides made clear that hateful speech is not welcome at the school: “We will confront you. We will take action against you.”
In addition to being racist, some of the flyers blamed African-Americans for voting for Hillary Clinton in the 2016 primary elections. Theyread, "We endured a year of Blumpf instead of enjoying one of Bernie because you DUMB BLACK ASSES just pull the lever for whoever the party machine says to," and, "All this bullshit about King when you simpletons can't even pick a candidate properly. You stupid monkeys handed Trump the White House the minute you handed Hillary the nomination!"
Clinton swept South Carolina in 2016's primary, with 73.5% of the vote versus Bernie Sanders' 26%. With African-Americans, she enjoyed an 87 to 13 margin.
"The flyers included racial slurs in big, bolded font, but the majority of the posters’ content was in a font that was more difficult to read, and those words were a direct indictment of the infighting of the Democratic Party," Logan Martin, a sophomore and president of the campus College Democrats, told Refinery29. "As the party of diversity, we must also be the party of inclusion, and that means accepting others’ decisions to vote for candidates with whom we disagree."
Abby Beauregard, the communications director for the College Dems, told Refinery29 that she's not surprised about the expression of racist attitudes or the anti-Hillary aggression, both of which she's seen on campus before.
"Within groups of people I know, there was a lot of outrage and disgust" in response to the flyers, she said. "This is a very conservative campus in a lot of ways, so it's not unheard of for people to make comments like that — but it's another thing to see it in writing on the walls."
She said the fact that the school is in the South and has a big Greek system often seems to “enable” people to make these statements. The story of Harley Barber, a girl from New Jersey who was expelled from the University of Alabama for posting Instagrams in which she repeatedly says the n-word, comes to mind: In one of the videos, she asserts that she’s "in the South now, bitch," so she can say whatever she wants.
"There's a culture of saying things that aren't PC and trying to get a rise out of people of color and women," said Beauregard. "I think the university has done its best to integrate us, but we still are a fairly segregated campus and the only thing that would change that is if student attitudes change, and we're getting better at it but we're just not there."
At Middle Tennessee State University in Murfreesboro, TN, another large public university in the South, the atmosphere can be just as tense. "We're all used to micro-aggressions. There's definitely racial tension," Raven Harmon, a senior and the vice president of the Black Student Union, which she has recently helped relaunch, told Refinery29, adding that in many of her classes there are very few Black students and some white students treat them as though they are less intelligent. "We definitely have class discussions where people show their true colors."
A perpetrator stuck posters from Vanguard America that read "Protect White Families" on top of Black History Month posters on this campus in Murfreesboro, TN, earlier this year. Harmon said the BSU regularly meets with the school president to discuss incidents like this, but not much has come out of the discussions yet. She recalled how scary it was when white nationalists held a White Lives Matter rally in Murfreesboro last fall. In the end, counter-protestors outnumbered them by about 600.
White supremacist flyers have been stuck to Black History Month flyers around @MTSU campus. If you see one, please send it to us and try to remove them!
We will be discussing these flyers, white supremacy, and activism on Wednesday Feb 7th at 6:00 in STU 220. pic.twitter.com/EOhgMof6VO
At public universities like USC and MTSU, postings like this are generally protected by the First Amendment. Michelle Deutchman, National Campus Counsel at the ADL, said that despite their serious impact, it's unlikely for racist or anti-immigrant flyers to be considered criminal activity by law. "Hate speech is protected by the First Amendment — some would say that's a cornerstone of our democracy," she said, adding that a university is not in a position to make "content-based restrictions," only "content-neutral" ones.
Despite all the recent hand-wringing about free speech on college campuses, studies actually show that support for free speech is highest among liberals and the college-educated — though you wouldn’t know it from the way certain writers on the right have framed the debate. Bari Weiss’ “We’re All Fascists Now,” in which she argued that "leftists" are attacking free speech, and David Brooks accusing students of " tribalism " and suppressing opposing viewpoints on campus both come to mind. Incidents like Yiannopoulos' visit to Berkeley last year, when counter-protestors caused hundreds of thousands of dollars' worth of damage to the campus opposing his anti-trans, anti-immigrant rhetoric, have become sticking points for conservatives. But in fact, people on the right are overall less supportive of free speech.
"It Makes It Hard To Concentrate On School"
At Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, CA, a large, suburban, public university, racist flyers were hung the day after Martin Luther King Jr. Day in January. They mentioned “statistics” about assault, welfare, AIDS, homicide, and domestic violence in Black communities as compared to white communities. A month before, flyers targeting DREAMers and undocumented immigrants werefound on campus.
Someone printed off and posted facts about blacks and the Cal Poly president condemned them as harassment, offensive, frightening, and intimidating. pic.twitter.com/AOlFNWL7RY
Isabella Paoletto, a third-year journalism student and activist, told Refinery29 that racist rhetoric and flyers are a common occurrence at Cal Poly, which, like all the others in this story, is a predominantly white school.
"We’ve also had multiple cases of individuals on campus handing out pro-Nazi propaganda flyers with words like 'American Nazi party' and 'Symbol of White Power' on them," she said. "Many fraternities on campus have also contributed to the racist ambiance of campus, like in 2013 when a frat hosted a 'Colonial Bros and Nava-Hos' party [ Ed. note: The school found that this party didn’t violate any campus policies], or when the Alpha Gamma Rho fraternity posted a photo in front of their frat in culturally and ethnically insensitive costumes, or in 2008 when a Confederate flag and a noose were found on campus housing."
After the flyering incident this year, the university issued a statement. "As we have said in the past, hate has no place at Cal Poly," university President Jeffrey Armstrong wrote in an email to the community. “We condemn any act intended to intimidate, frighten, harass, or hurt a member of our campus community. Such actions are borne of ignorance and cowardice and seek to promote division and false narratives rather than empathy and thoughtful discussion — the very ideals for which our university stands.”
But the school didn’t go further than that. “Every time an incident like this happens the president of Cal Poly sends out an email basically saying that some students are offended about the incident and that he apologizes and it doesn’t reflect what Cal Poly is about,” said Paoletto. “However, once this email is sent out the topic is never discussed or addressed by administration again.”
Despite the denunciations, the university emphasized that the flyers are free speech protected by the First Amendment.
"To be clear: The university does not support the content of these postings. And we stand with members of our campus community who find the content abhorrent," Matt Lazier, the university's media relations director, told Refinery29. "Nevertheless, the content of the postings is protected as free speech by the First Amendment. As a public institution, Cal Poly cannot engage in censorship of any form."
While the flyers are legal, this begs the question: What responsibility do schools have to use, as Deutchman put it, “counter speech,” to send the message that they don’t tolerate racism? As she suggested, universities have a lot of options to raise their voices higher than those of bigots: Students and administrators can hold anti-racist rallies and town halls, offer counseling services, educate the community about white supremacy, and encourage students to use their First Amendment rights to promote diversity.
Said Stensland, from the University of South Carolina: “Part of the discussion we’ve had with students is that while we abhor certain messages, there are First Amendment protections that often come into play. We do not advocate silencing speech, but instead working to ensure hateful speech does not carry the day. The flyers were a special case because we do have rules about where flyers can be posted, and these were posted in unauthorized locations.” (In some locations, posting flyers is vandalism.)
Some schools have started taking these steps, however imperfectly. But a lot of students are tired of the emotional labor it takes to have to constantly speak up for their safety and wish their very right to exist weren't threatened. When the “protected speech” comes from organizations that advocate for killing minorities and are inspired by Nazis, it’s not hard to see why many are angry at their universities for not doing enough.
Especially in light of these stats: The number of U.S. hate groups rose in 2017, during Donald Trump's first year in office, and has surged 20% since 2014, according to the SPLC. Among the more than 600 U.S. white supremacist groups, neo-Nazi organizations rose from 99 to 121.
At academic institutions, racial-harassment complaints have steadily increased from 2009 to 2016, according to data from theU.S. Department of Education's Office for Civil Rights. In 2009, the office had 96 complaints from post-secondary institutions while in 2016, there were 198.
Lecia Brooks, outreach director at the SPLC, says the best way to combat these efforts is with education: identifying these groups as white nationalists and supremacists, and protesting in peaceful ways.
"I think it's important for the administration to ensure that it cares about the students and ensure their safety: open up workshops and counseling centers, do whatever they can to ensure that their safety is a number-one concern,” she said. “Often, they'll just put out a nothing statement, saying, 'This doesn't conform with the values of our university,' and they do nothing to support the students."
Brooks, who travels to colleges around the country educating students and faculty on white supremacy, added: "I want to continue to talk about how we can and should push back against the recruitment of white supremacists on college campuses. I want to educate students and prepare and train them in the tradition of the non-violent civil rights movement. That's what we hope to do through our campus groups, too. It's important that people stand up and that they do it non-violently."
So, that’s where we are: Posting a flyer calling Black people monkeys is “protected” freedom of expression but clearly “abhorrent.” Students have become “overly sensitive” and “PC” in their hostility toward speakers who despise their very humanity. And universities, while making a valiant effort, by many accounts are still not forceful enough in their actions against those who try to force their white supremacists beliefs on institutions of learning.
Paoletto said that she has at least five friends who have wanted to drop out of Cal Poly or transfer to another school because of the racism on campus and the administration's non-response — herself included. "It makes it hard to concentrate on school and enjoy your college experience when you are constantly made to feel out of place and unwelcome, no matter how deserving you are to be there, too."