Call it a lack of willpower, or a lack of confidence, or a combination of the two, but the tendency to overbuy at the beauty counter isn't entirely our fault. Sales tactics have a lot to do with it, too. The ugly truth is, sales representatives are usually instructed to hit certain quotas — to sell this many products, and this dollar amount, by such and such time. "It’s turned into what I call 'fast-food makeup,'" says Angela, a makeup artist (our sources preferred to stay anonymous for obvious reasons). "How much can I sell customers in a short amount of time?"
Of course, the reps are just doing their jobs, and many of them do keep their customers' best interests in mind. But there's also a fine line that they must walk; an impressive balancing act that keeps them from teetering into pushy or aggressive territory — a major turnoff. "From what I know, companies don't actually like that," says Caroline, a former sales representative. "They don’t want to lose the trust of the customer."
These tactics make it easier for customers to feel seduced, to let down their guards, and to loosen their purse strings. So, we decided to ask a dermatologist, a makeup artist, and former sales representatives to share their tricks of the trade, and to help us recognize when we're being offered legit advice and when we're being taken for a ride.
Ahead, 11 lies you'll hear at the makeup counter (and the few noteworthy exceptions).
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The Myth: "I love that lip color on you!"
A little flattery goes a long way. Which is why lines like this, delivered by a stranger, can be hard to resist: "Your eyes are so beautiful! I know this color that would really bring them out. You should try it." This, fellow shoppers, is what's known in the trade as "pulling."
"There are people who are hired specifically to pull," says Angela. "'You need to go pull,' is something I've heard every single day at every single makeup counter I’ve ever worked at. It seems so disingenuous, but we literally will hire a puller to bring [over clients], saying, 'So and so is visiting from Dubai' or 'They’re staying at the Plaza,' to signal, 'They have money.' To me, that’s just so gross."
The moral of the story? If you're not looking for any new products, take the compliment and keep on walking.
The Myth: "The 'gift with purchase' is totally worth it."
Everyone loves getting free stuff. But is it really free when you have to shell out $100 for a slew of other products first? Do the math. If the freebie comes with something you intended to purchase anyway, great. Enjoy. If not, save your money for lunch (because that doesn't come free, either).
The Exception:
The key to getting the good stuff, Angela says, is pinpointing the brands that rarely do promotions, and looking at the sizes of the products they're throwing in for free. Travel-sized gifts are good for jet-setters, but generally, the pros recommend holding out for full-sized giveaways. Shelling out a little extra dough to score a pricey night cream that will last might be worth it in the end.
The Myth: "We're out of that one color."
"Out of stock" can sometimes mean "out of incentive." Representatives aren't just given overall profit goals for a certain period; they're also scored on how much money they can get a customer to drop on a single sale.
That means some sales reps actually try to avoid ringing up small-potato purchases (say, a single lipstick), because it would drag down their average. "If a customer comes in looking for one lipstick, a rep would rather let that sale go because it looks bad for her average," Angela says. "I've seen thousands of dollars walk out the door."
The Myth: "It's allergy-tested, so you won't have a reaction."
Allergy-tested doesn't mean that a product is completely allergen-free. "There is a list of things that tend to provoke certain types of allergies, so [allergy-tested] can mean that these products are free of those," says dermatologist Karyn Grossman, MD. "But anyone can be allergic to anything." Which means if you typically react to one specific ingredient, you still want to make sure it's not on the ingredient list.
The Myth: "This is the right product for YOUR skin."
Most sales representatives do have working knowledge of the products they are selling. Oftentimes, major brands host training sessions to give their reps talking points about new products and classic standbys. Unfortunately, a few training sessions do not equal a cosmetology degree. "People behind the counters are typically just beauty advisers," says Caroline, the former sales rep. "They're all trained by the company."
Nor are they dermatologists, or aestheticians. "I've seen people who misdiagnose skin, or recommend the wrong products for certain skin types," Angela says.
Always leave the diagnosing to your doctor, and be wary of any skin-care advice that you receive from behind the counter.
The Exception:
There are certain brands that do hire makeup artists to showcase their products. "The ones that stand in front of the counter are usually makeup artists, and they're freelance or contracted," Caroline says. Angela, who has been in the business for seven years, is one of them, and she bounces around from department store to department store.
Don't be shy about asking for credentials.
The Myth: "This one really expensive cream is definitely worth the money."
Sales representatives are given specific products to push, whether they're new launches or old classics. "[The brand] would give us the sales pitches, and teach us about the products," says former sales representative Kami. "At first I was enthusiastic, but in retrospect...they were very crafted."
So how do you know if you're being pushed? If you're just there for a lipstick but are being introduced to a $200 cream, watch out. And if the representative is rattling off a list of ingredients, and they know more about the ingredients than anything else — you're getting a pitch.
Pass.
The Myth: "You MUST use these [two, or three, or four] products together."
Beauty companies love to recommend three-part (or even 12-part) steps for flawless, glowing skin. Products have also become more targeted of late (maybe thank the Korean-beauty phenomenon for that) — four different serums may claim to have four different anti-aging benefits. But you don't always need all of them. "I tell all my patients: Taking care of your skin, making sure you don’t have skin cancer, that’s medical," Dr. Grossman says. "Everything else for beauty, you should only do it if you want to."
The Exception:
Some regimens do benefit from more than one step — but you can count them on one hand.
When it comes to must-use combinations, there are only a few things you should definitely use in tandem. "If you’re using a retinol or [alpha-hydroxy acid] or [beta-hydroxy acid], you also need to apply sunblock in the morning," Dr. Grossman says. And using a product containing antioxidants helps to boost the effectiveness of your sunscreen.
The Myth: "I'm wearing this product right now!"
Almost every former sales rep we chatted with said they were required to wear their company's products while at work — or, at least, something that looked similar. "I liked other makeup better [than my company's], so if I had certain makeup on and someone said, 'I like what you have on,' I would find something close to it at the counter," says Kami. In fact, Kami would even do her makeup in the morning and think about the products she would say she was wearing.
Shannon, a sales representative in California, has found that these personal recommendations can get too, well, personal. "There are certain skin products that are specifically formulated for Asian women, supposedly to reduce sallowness," she says. "But as an Asian myself, I think that’s super-ridiculous, and I don't think they work at all, but we’re supposed to say, 'Oh, yeah, I’ve used this personally and I love it.'"
The Myth: "This will solve the problem in 14 to 30 days."
For Dr. Grossman, the biggest problem with the beauty industry isn't flat-out lies — it's generalizations. "There is no one cure-all," she says. "For me, a topical undereye cream will work. For my sister, who has some fat loss under her eyes, no eye cream is going to correct that."
The Myth: "You MUST use the entire line for results."
Brand loyalty is fine and all, especially when you discover a specific product that works for your skin. But that doesn't mean you have to marry it. Switching it up can sometimes produce even better results. "I'll give [clients] products from all different lines to form an individual program," Dr. Grossman says. "Sometimes, different lines have better this and better that, and sometimes it’s just not the product for you. It depends on the person."
The Exception:
There are two things to watch out for when you're cocktailing your own skin-care regimen. The first is fragrance — strongly scented products could clash in not-so-lovely ways. Second — and this can also happen if you're using products from the same line — is overdoing it, specifically with products that might be irritating. "It’s probably not a great idea to use six different retinol products," Dr. Grossman says. "You may get some inflammation."
The Myth: "This one product does EVERYTHING."
If a product sounds like it's too good to be true, then it probably is. "I've heard someone say, 'Yeah, this product has hyaluronic acid. It's going to boost collagen production, help you hydrate at night, it's oil-free...' And in reality, it won't do any of that," Angela says.
Yes, there are truly amazing products that function on several different levels. But, ultimately, one cream can't do it all. "I think skin care is really important, but you have to know what it’s able to do," Dr. Grossman says. "There are no facelifts or lasers in a bottle."
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