Whether you have year-round speckles or just a light sprinkle, your freckles always look best when you embrace them. “There’s something refreshing and real about freckles. It’s a sign of youthfulness,” says Daniel Martin, a celebrity makeup artist for Dior. But freckles aren’t just cute, they’re sexy-without-trying-too-hard, too. Any doubt and look at Victoria Secret bombshell Erin Heatherton’s signature smattering. No wonder the fashion world is also celebrating the natural — and surprisingly versatile — look. Faux freckles have been popping up on the runways to complement the no-makeup effect, and were used as a strategy to play down dramatic flourishes. “Freckles make everything else you do, whether it’s a lip or strong feline eye, look a bit more effortless,” says Hannah Murray, a makeup artist and Topshop beauty consultant.
And while sun-kissed spots are trending, makeup tricks to make them shine have been a little less forthcoming. (Hey, it wasn’t so long again when freckles were erased with full-coverage makeup or Photoshop.) Luckily, that’s about to change! Read on for some expert-approved methods to enhance your skin while maintaining your beauty marks. And, if you don’t have freckles but wish you did, keep reading. There’s a crazy-easy trick to fake 'em here for you, too.
Slather On SPF (Even If You Don’t Feel Like It)
Okay, technically this isn’t a makeup tip, but applying a daily sunscreen (even in the winter!) is the most important thing you can do for your freckles. “People who freckle also tend to get a lot more age spots and sunspots,” says Gita Bass, celeb makeup artist at Simple Skincare.
Remember, hyperpigmentation is triggered by sun exposure, and the melanin in your skin that accumulates will eventually surface. No need to freak, though. If you’re diligent about wearing sun protection, you’ll help protect those cute clusters from morphing into darker and larger splotches in the future. Once you find a daily moisturizer with broad spectrum SPF 15 (or more), this step is a total no-brainer.
Know Which Trends To Skip
Reality check: The contour craze is risky business for girls with freckles. “Traditional contouring is such a cosmetic-heavy technique. It’s a pointless exercise when you’re trying to show off your freckles. You’re better off highlighting the cheekbones, which sculpt the face naturally,” says Murray.
Use a dab of Vaseline or Egyptian Magic on the orbital bone and bridge of your nose to pop your features. You may not look Kardashian-cut, but you’ll get enough dimension without dulling your freckles.
Go For The Glow
If you're looking for something a little more iridescent, reach for a liquid illuminator like this one. Simply pat the lightweight highlighter onto the tops of your cheekbones, down the bridge of your nose, and on your Cupid's bow, or mix a drop into your foundation for allover radiance.
Nyx Born to Glow Liquid Illuminator, $7.49, available at Ulta.
Lighten Up Your Foundation…A Lot
It’s really hard to rock freckles and heavy makeup. Don’t get us wrong, you can definitely use foundation to deal with redness or whatever little issues that bug you, but your formula shouldn’t interfere with your skin’s texture or — much worse — wipe out your spots. The safe bet: a sheer BB cream or tinted moisturizer. Apply it just where you need the coverage, like around the nose and chin, and use a damp sponge (or BeautyBlender) to remove any excess product.
Does your skin get super oily? Avoid piling heavy powder on your T-zone, warns Murray. “The whole point here is fresh, healthy skin. You don’t want a matte finish.” She recommends an oil-absorbing moisturizer or primer layered underneath your foundation to minimize the grease and preserve your glow.
One final foundation pitfall to avoid: matching your makeup shade to your freckles. “People try to even things out and end up with a really dark face,” says Bass. When you pick a foundation shade, use the lighter skin in between the darker beauty marks as your guide.
Cut Down On Concealer
Concealer can look obvious and unnatural against freckled skin, especially if the formula is cakey or opaque, says Bass. Luckily, you can get away with less: “Skin imperfections aren’t as noticeable, which is another advantage to having freckles,” says Bass. When your skin does need some correction, say under the eyes or around the nose and chin, use a sheer concealer, or mix your current formula with a little moisturizer to thin it out.
One concealer caveat: Your eyelids may need full coverage. “Freckles on your eyelids can look like a mistake when you’re wearing complicated eye makeup,” says Bass. In that case, layer a heavy concealer (try Clé de Peau Beauté) underneath primer (like Nars) to create a blank canvas for eye shadows.
Bronzer Isn’t Off-Limits
If you’re worried that warm tones will wipe out your freckles, relax. As long as you keep it sheer, a little sun-kissed color complements your speckles, which are naturally more prominent post-sun. Get it with a light cream or gel bronzer. “You want to add a little bit of warmth, but you also want the skin to come through,” says Martin.
Powder bronzer has too much pigment and can give freckles an ashy finish, he warns. Blend the color along your cheekbones, forehead and nose, using a stippling brush for a light, feathery application. Your neck always tends to be paler than your face and shoulders, so sweep a bit over that skin too. (Try Charlotte Tilbury Beach Stick or Dr. Hauschka Translucent Bronzing Tint).
P.S. No matter which bronzer you pick, avoid anything that has a sparkly finish. Glitter will overpower your freckles, according to our pros.
Reach For A Really Bright Blush
No need to be shy when picking your cheek color — freckles look extra fresh under a wash of bright pink or coral. In fact, “you need a little pop of color to add contrast. Anything too brown or warm could make your freckles look muddy,” says Bass.
A cream is best, or go with a sheer powder if your skin is super oily. Tap the color over the apples of the checks with your fingers to blend. “Freckles tend to get lighter as you go out toward the cheekbones anyway, so it looks really natural and you don’t have to worry about covering them up,” says Bass.
Make Your Mark
If you don’t have freckles of your own, you can totally fake it with a pencil. Um…how exactly? Alternate two different shades — taupe and ash brown — to create the most realistic-looking spots. Brow pencils tend to have these tones, or you can use a pencil that swirls two natural shades together.
Now, for your technique: First, soften the tip of the pencil on the back of your hand, then tap the color over the bridge of your nose and over your cheekbones. “The quicker you do it without thinking, the better. The randomness is what makes it work,” says Murray. Press each mark gently with your ring finger to push it into your skin and lighten the color a bit. Set with a very light dusting of translucent powder before you flaunt your newly speckled skin.
Like this post? There's more. Get tons of beauty tips, tutorials, and news on the Refinery29 Beauty Facebook page. Like us on Facebook — we'll see you there!
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Fashion's Coolest Kids Just Launched A Makeup Line
PSA: Foundation & Concealer Hybrids Will Cut Your Morning Routine In Half
Spring Beauty Trends We Can't Wait To Try