This story was originally published on September 7, 2016.
Each time fashion season arrives, there's somehow more up in the air than seasons past. It seems like we've seen every fathomable mutation of a runway show or presentation by now, doesn't it? Yet designers and brands continue to tinker with the tried and true (and some might say tired) formats of both showing and selling clothes. Tons of designers are trying "See now, buy now" models," while others are eschewing the the typical wholesale and retailer setup in favor of a direct-to-consumer model. These more dramatic shifts get compounded with the typical shuffles that occur from season to season, like designers hopping from one city to another (whether for a one-off change of scenery or a permanent place on a different calendar).
So, what's changing this time around? A lot. Ahead, check out a bevy of ways Fashion Week is evolving this time around.
"See Now, Buy Now" Is Here — Now What?
Ah, everyone's favorite buzzword: We all talked the "see now, buy now" talk in 2016, now it's time for brands to walk the walk: September marks the first Fashion Month where we'll see the industry's shift toward in-season and shoppable presentations truly manifest itself. Thakoon is back; Misha Nonoo is on Snapchat; Tom Ford and Burberry are both integrating the concepts into their buzzy presentations — the list goes on.
Designers have been adopting this new format in various ways in an effort to be more consumer-facing. Some brands have taken it more literally than others: Rebecca Minkoff will host her fall '16 show on the street outside of her Soho boutique, Business of Fashion reports. There'll be 750 people in attendance — not counting the lucky passersby that get to sneak a peek at the well-dressed crowds.
Photo: Rabbani and Solimene Photography/Getty Images.
The Designer Tide Keeps Turning...
The past year in the industry can best be described as the most confusing round of designer musical chairs on record. Raf Simons left Dior for Calvin Klein; Maria Grazia Chiuri left Valentino for Dior; Anthony Vaccarello left Versus Versace for Saint Laurent! While most slots have been filled (and most designers have found new homes), there are still the creative directors-turned free agents keeping us on our toes. Among them are Alber Elbaz, Hedi Slimane, Francisco Costa, and most recently, Peter Copping (pictured). Their successors have been announced (and the intermediary seasons put in the hands of in-house studio teams), but what will the next chapters at these storied houses — and for these creators — hold?
Photo: Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images.
... But A New Class Of Creative Directors Gets The Spotlight
It may feel like a full-time job to simply keep track of who's going where in the industry (hey, that's what we're here for), but it doesn't mean we're any less excited for fresh minds to lend their creative talents to storied fashion houses. Spring '17 marks the debut of some of the most highly-anticipated designer shuffles, such Jonathan Saunders at Diane von Furstenberg (pictured), Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, Jarrar at Lanvin, and Chiuri at Dior. We'll still have to wait until fall '17 for Pieter Mulier's Calvin Klein, as well as Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia's homecoming at Oscar de la Renta, but we have an inkling that the next four weeks will give us enough talking points to keep us busy until February.
Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFA/REX/Shutterstock.
Yeezy Season 4 Is, Indeed, Coming — Not That Anyone's Surprised
When has Kanye West ever followed the fashion industry's conventions? So, instead of listing his fourth collection for Yeezy, which was very much expected to debut in September, on the CFDA's official New York Fashion Week calendar, he quietly announced it (by way of a WWD report) a few weeks prior to the show date. These methods haven't always sat well with everybody, but at least West has given us some time to prepare this time. But, yes, Yeezy's back — and not without controversy, of course.
Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images.
The Name Is Valentine. Kate Valentine.
Kate Spade the person is returning to NYFW — except, now, that's Ms. Kate Valentine to you. The designer actually changed her name earlier this year, to create further distance between the brand she founded with husband Andy Spade in 1993 (and left in 2007) and her new footwear and accessories venture, Frances Valentine. The brand launched earlier this year, and it's making yet another debut on the CFDA calendar for spring '17.
"I wanted the collection to feel modern with unexpected details," Valentine (formerly Spade) explained to Refinery29 of her upcoming collection. "For me, there has to be something emotional about a shoe where you think, Oh, I have to have those." What makes her new venture different, she posits, is the time invested on "the architecture of the shoes" — all the details that give them defined shape and structure. "It's making something special," she said. "Something you can't live without."
Photo: Courtesy of Frances Valentine.
Some Industry Heavyweights Pull Back From Their Traditional Spectacles
There are certain events that are hallmarks on the New York Fashion Week calendar, whether it's Marc Jacobs' show (always at the tail end, to close with a bang) or, say, Diane von Furstenberg (pictured), which is consistently a roll call of the biggest models in the biz), and so on. However, as some of these players switch over to in-season presentations, these once-mainstay events are quietly disappearing.
DVF put her buzzy runway plans on hold in favor of more intimate, by-appointment-only showings of Saunders' inaugural collection for the brand to select guests, The New York Times reported. Similarly, Calvin Klein will be skipping the catwalk for its studio-team designed spring '17 range. Derek Lam also announced he'd be distilling his vision into a smaller presentation this season as a way to cut through the noise of the fashion cycle, WWD reported. "This is an opportunity to be centered and think more succinctly," Lam said. "I can present something that is tight and nuanced and concentrate on talking about what my collection is about."
Photo: Edward James/WireImage.
Gigi Hadid Turns Designer, Carnival Hostess
In a few short years, Gigi Hadid has become one of the hottest talents to book for any given show. Buzz surrounds her everywhere she goes — and that'll certainly be the case this New York Fashion Week, when she sits back (for one time slot, at least) to play designer.
Hadid's highly anticipated capsule for Tommy Hilfiger has been almost a year in the making. Now, it's ready for prime time, and the label is celebrating the model's collection with a lot of fanfare. Hilfiger is trading the catwalk for a pier, an exclusive guest list into a mix of industry folk and actual consumers, and the six-month lag time for immediate shopability.
The brand gave Business of Fashion a dizzying breakdown of what's to come this weekend. First off, it's a two-day affair, starting Friday evening, when 2,000 guests flock to Pier 6 in Manhattan for a shopable runway show, followed by a full-on carnival complete with a record shop, souvenir stands, temporary tattoos, manicure stations, rides, games, snacks, and, of course, opportunities to purchase Tommy x Gigi. The next day, the festivities open to the masses. The catwalk from the night prior will then be broadcast both at the pier and on the screens at Times Square — plus on Facebook Live, on Tommy Hilfiger's website, on partner websites, and any and all other ways we consume media nowadays, probably.
Photo: Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger.
Lauren Conrad Didn't Go To Paris — But Rihanna (Maybe) Will
Rihanna took New York Fashion Week by storm last season with a star-studded debut runway show for Fenty. While we were very much looking forward to her return for spring '17 (no one has more fun than Rih, after all), the performer-slash-designer will be skipping this round. Instead, she'll be using New York as a launching pad for her inaugural ready-to-wear drop, gracing fans with her presence at a series of pop-ups in New York and L.A. However, this may not be the only surprise Bad Gal has up her extra-long Puma sleeve: Rumor has it she does, indeed, have a spring collection in the works, which she's planning on showing in Paris this season, W WD reports. How very 2011 Kanye of her.
Photo: TIMOTHY A. CLARY/AFP/Getty Images.
Trash Collector Uniforms Get A High-Fashion Twist
When Heron Preston announced he would be partnering with New York's Department of Sanitation (DSNY) to upcycle old trash collector uniforms into runway-ready garments, he was met with some skepticism. But the Kanye West associate (and former Yeezy designer) has plans that go way beyond a flashy catwalk.
The partnership between Preston and the DSNY, titled Uniform, will benefit the city's 0x30 sustainability campaign, as well as the Foundation for New York's Strongest. "I felt like they were the true unsung heroes of New York, working day and night, 24/7 to keep [the city] clean and livable for us, yet [they're] totally overlooked," Preston told Refinery29 about why he decided to approach the DSNY about collaborating. "It was this passion of mine to get involved with real people to do good for them, but also for the environment."
So, on the first night of NYFW, Preston will take over the Spring Street Salt Shed in Manhattan to present his Uniform concept — something he hopes will evolve to encompass more causes and involve even more brands.
Photo: Courtesy of Heron Preston.
Some Of The Most Instagrammable Moments May Be No More
Kate Spade New York, which historically has always hosted one of the most Instagrammed moments from NYFW, will also be stepping back a bit this season — although creative director Deborah Lloyd underscores that the brand isn't totally pulling out of the calendar. It's "expanded our time slot to reflect the shift to a new, by appointment, long-lead and select fashion trade media (as well as buyers) presentation format," she told Refinery29. The collection on display will still be spring '17 — however, the guest list is limited, as she explained, and social media will be banned. (Gasp!)
Of this decision, Lloyd explained that the company has always been quick and consistent with its delivery of new product, and that having images of a new collection spread online — be it from a presentation or from a celebrity outfit — months before it hit shelves "might be confusing for our customer."
This switch in its Fashion Week plans comes as a result of the "see now, buy now" conversation that's dominated the industry, Lloyd added. "We thought about how we have actually been responding to this challenge for some time," she said, adding that its shoppable #MissAdventure film series has offered a solution to giving customers that type of instant gratification. "The timeline of when she begins thinking about what she wants to wear in a particular season and when she expects to be able to purchase those pieces, has shortened," Lloyd said. "We had to address this directly, as did the industry overall, and we all need to continue to evaluate how it’s working."
Photo: Courtesy of Kate Spade New York.
Familiar Names, Fresh Faces
Over the past few years, we've seen the children of Hollywood gain more and more traction in the fashion industry: Kendall Jenner, Gigi and Bella Hadid, Hailey Baldwin... The list goes on. Kaia Gerber (daughter of the one and only Cindy Crawford) has yet to grace a runway, but already has a few magazine covers under her belt, which surely points to future catwalk success. Jude Law's daughter Iris is seemingly on the verge, too — as well as Kelsey Grammer's daughter Mason (pictured), who walked Malan Breton's show in February and is expected to return to New York Fashion Week for spring '17.
Photo: Fernando Leon/Getty Images.
Band of Outsiders Is Baaack...
...but a re-introduction is definitely necessary.
When the brand shuttered its doors to well-dressed fans' tears back in 2015, founder Scott Sternberg's vision went with it. However, there was hope for the label when Belgian holding group CLCC bought out what was left of the company later that year. Now, the band is back together — or, rather, has "regrouped," as the new creative team puts it. The label's coming back to NYFW this season under the vision of design trio Niklaus Hodel, Florian Feder, and Matthias Weber, who first linked up at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp (the same school that nurtured the talents of Vetements' Demna Gvasalia and Martin Margiela).
"As kids and teenagers, everything that was brought from America was gold to us," the Design Collective, as they're calling themselves, told Refinery29 in a statement. "We all share a lifelong fascination with the Southern California culture. We are thrilled to embrace the challenge of reinterpreting what that aesthetic looks like, blended with a European sensibility that is inspired by college, workwear basics, and North American pop culture." Please, let there still be bow ties.
Photo: Courtesy of Band of Outsiders.
Another Household Name Joins The NYFW Fray
When so many retailers are opting out of Fashion Month, Club Monaco makes its debut. The brand joins Banana Republic as more accessible names among the luxury labels on the docket. For the occasion, Club Monaco created 37 men's and women's looks. These were dreamt up by creative director Caroline Belhumeur and menswear designer Matthew Millward (his first for Club Monaco), and will be shoppable at select brick-and-mortar locations as well as online. Oh, and as for the show? It'll take place in the heart of Manhattan at Grand Central Terminal.
"We chose [the location] as it remains one of the most iconic locations in the city and provides the perfect backdrop for our New York Fashion Week Fall collection," CEO John Mehas said in a statement. As far as what we can expect from the clothes? "We continue to evolve heritage pieces, but layer on a Victorian sensibility with feminine prints and unfussy details," Belhumeur described in a press release. "This is offset with military tailoring and a play on shrunken versus oversized proportions." Surely, this'll be very intriguing for those commuting through Grand Central on September 9.
Photo: Courtesy of Club Monaco.
The Next Wave of Design Talent, Grouped Into One Show
The Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) has nurtured the design talents of Nicole Miller, Jill Stuart, Mary Katrantzou, among countless others. While many alumni eventually do make their way onto the Fashion Week calendar, they're not generally introduced to the industry early on in the context of their education. That's changing this year: RISD is hosting its first-ever fashion show on the calendar, showcasing 10 rising fashion designers from the class of 2016.
The event is sponsored by Tommy Hilfiger (his daughter Elizabeth is a recent graduate of the school's apparel program), and hosted by Miller, WWD reported. The pieces to be shown on the runway were plucked from the 10 finalists' thesis collections by a panel of judges that included Henry Zankov of Diane von Furstenberg and Francesco Fucci of The Row. (The one pictured is from Allison Morgan's line.)
Photo: Courtesy of RISD/Matt Francis Photography.
Bill Cunningham Will Be Honored, In Some Fashion
Iconic photographer Bill Cunningham passed away in June; though he was perpetually spotted around NYC capturing great, candid fashion moments year-round, Cunningham was a welcome fixture of NYFW. We haven't yet had a season full of shows devoid of constant sightings of Cunningham's signature blue workman's jacket. For a week in July, the tony intersection outside Bergdorf Goodman where Cunningham frequently shot was officially renamed in his honor.
Modeling agency and NYFW organizer IMG initially had plans to honor the humble, private photographer at the very first show of the official schedule (Nicholas K's 9 a.m. slot on Thursday), but that idea has since been scrapped. At the very least, we'll be pausing for a moment or two on the corner of 57th Street and Fifth Avenue to remember the man largely responsible for street style.
Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images.
Topshop Hops On The "See Now, Buy Now" Bandwagon, Too
The British fast-fashion retailer is selling a segment of its pricier Topshop Unique collection online right after its September 18 show at London Fashion Week. “Bringing our customers closer to the London Fashion Week experience has always been a focus for us, but now, more than ever, in a rapidly changing global marketplace where consumers demand immediacy, we recognize the importance of disrupting the traditional model,” Topshop managing director Mary Homer said in a statement. So, now you'll be able to buy a new must-have from the chain ASAP. While plenty of brands are testing out the immediate gratification approach, it's pretty meta for a fast-fashion brand, which is all about acquiring catwalk looks without the wait (or, you know, remotely similar price tags).
Photo: JUSTIN TALLIS/AFP/Getty Images.
Naomi Campbell Is Moonlighting As A Mentor
The supermodel's got her modeling proteges, and now, she's imparting her wisdom on some budding design talents, too. Campbell is a mentor for the slew of designers showing at VFiles' latest runway show, along with Young Thug; Fear of God designer (and merch maestro) Jerry Lorenzo; Rihanna's stylist, Mel Ottenberg; and illustrious makeup artist Pat McGrath. Surely, Campbell did not mince words while mentoring the design hopefuls. We're intrigued to see the pieces that'll end up impressing her.
Photo: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images.
Tom Ford Returns To NYC, Throws A Lavish Dinner & A Show
Anything Tom Ford does tends to be a big f*cking deal. He's broken from the whole New York-London-Milan-Paris circuit of shows to instead show in L.A., luring all the top editors to fly cross-country to see his latest designs (and assembling a formidably A-list front row for the occasion). Other seasons, Ford has shown in London and New York, with more flip-flopping between cities, countries, and time zones than most designers out there. This time around, he's back at NYFW. But, like Kanye, he's showing a day before all the fuss and frenzy of the official schedule.
And Ford's not just doing a standard-issue catwalk situation, obviously. The guest list is tight — just 180 people made the cut — and there will be cocktails, a performance by Leon Bridges, and a seated dinner, in addition to the actual runway show, according to The Hollywood Reporter. It's also a see-now, buy-now situation, since Ford is showing a fall 2016 (not spring 2017) collection. The venue is equally as swishy and significant: It's the recently-shuttered O.G. power lunch spot Four Seasons. Still following along?
Oh, and guess what: You're invited, too. The designer is livestreaming the whole fabulous affair on his site, and it should be a Hollywood-caliber production, given Ford's other career (as a film director) and the talent he's pulled in to film the show (Louis Horvitz, who does camera work for the Golden Globes, according to THR). We'll certainly be tuning in.
Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/ Getty Images.
Meet The Thoroughly Reinvented Thakoon
Thakoon Panichgul has a lot of changes being unveiled this season. Last year, Hong Kong-based investment firm Bright Fame Fashion took a majority stake in Thakoon. Last month, we got a first glimpse of the designer's new business strategy when he unveiled his direct-to-consumer model and his first drop of seasonless and, yes, "see now, buy now" designs. This month, he opened his first-ever retail store in NYC. And after skipping out last season, Panichgul will, indeed, be showing on the first official day of of NYFW.
Photo: Courtesy of Thakoon.
Akris Hops Across The Pond (For A Hot Second)
After showing in Paris for the past dozen years, Akris is making a cameo on the NYFW schedule. But this isn't a long-term change of scenery; it's just for this season. Why, exactly, is the Swiss brand presenting in NYC instead of Paris per usual? Akris' creative director, Albert Kriemler, was honored by FIT's Couture Council on September 7. The resulting show location switch-up is "a tribute to the city and the country which helped us to become who we are now," Kriemler said in a press release, per Fashion Times. Granted, as far as Parisian imports go, this isn't quite as monumental a production as Givenchy's splashy alfresco NYFW showing.
Photo: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty Images.
Even More Designers Tap Into "See Now, Buy Now"
The "see now, buy now" approach is being utilized by established names like Diane von Furstenberg and Burberry. Now, yet another legendary house is diving into the fray: Ralph Lauren announced that the collection he'd be presenting on September 14 would be available to purchase right away, through all channels, Vogue reports — online, at his brick-and-mortar boutiques, as well at at other stores. "Showing clothes, then delivering them six months later...it's over," the designer said, echoing the concerns of many other seasoned industry players about a need to shift into the digital age. We'll have to wait until next season to see how in-season presentations (and immediate deliveries) actually move product — and then we'll have a better idea of whether this new system has legs.
Photo: Randy Brooke/WireImage.
Athleisure Goes From Real-Way To Runway Trend
Thought athleisure was on its way out? Think again. The trend may have started out with dedicated workout-clothes-for-leisure capsules cropping up left and right, but it jogged into our offices, too — and now it’s made its way onto the runway. This season, two designers have used their show times to debut their own takes on activewear. First, Alexander Wang confirmed long-brewing rumors of an Adidas collaboration by closing out his spring '17 catwalk with an army of tracksuit-clad models. Then, Prabal Gurung announced a pair-up with luxury fitness retailer Bandier on a capsule of workout gear. These designers join the ranks of Riccardo Tisci, Olivier Rousteing, and more that have began dabbling in this category as an extension of their high-end brands. Given all this new merchandise, it looks like we're all set to go into month two of our all-athleisure-everything experiment.
Photo: ANGELA WEISS/AFP/Getty Images.
Banana Republic's Revival Bets Big On Celebrities
The retailer has had some shuffles in recent years: Marissa Webb joined as creative director and then decamped in less than two years. Despite a not-so-great sales forecast recently, things are looking optimistic for the brand, now that it’s got Olivia Palermo on board. BR has tapped Palermo to be its first-ever global style ambassador.
"I helped curate some pieces that will be shoppable immediately, and then throughout the year; we'll hopefully be doing more together," the street style star told Refinery29 at Banana Republic's NYFW presentation. "I'm working closely with the design team and giving them feedback." On Banana's big-name roster, Palermo joins Kevin Love of the Cleveland Cavaliers, who serves as the face of the men's collection.
"From an engagement standpoint, the things that [Palermo] was involved with were incredibly successful,” Lexi Tawes, Banana Republic's senior vice president of merchandising and digital, told BoF. “So obviously, we're hoping to leverage that same level of success here, and I see no reason why that wouldn't be true." It's certainly an interesting move — and, likely, one that will prove financially savvy, considering the clout that social stars like Palermo carry with them.
Photo: Colby Blount/FilmMagic.
There Are More Diverse Castings Than We've Seen Before
After Fashion Month wraps up in Paris every season, the conversation about whether or not the industry is moving toward inclusivity (of different bodies, ethnicities, and ages) is reignited — usually to much disappointment. This season, though, some designers are responding to (or at least making an effort to engage with) the public's demand to see themselves represented on the runway. In New York, we saw Christian Siriano, a designer who has long exhibited a we-welcome-everybody attitude toward dressing women, send both straight-sized and curve models down the spring '17 catwalk; Iskra Lawrence, a model who's become a vocal advocate for body positivity in fashion, walked her very first runway show this season; J.Crew looked to its personal network — and in-house staff — to cast its presentation. There are even more examples of untraditional (but very much welcomed) lineups so far this season, setting a solid precedent as all the Fashion Month hoopla heads overseas in a few days.
Photo: Courtesy of Christian Siriano/Dan Lecca.
Designers Are Going Coed On The Catwalk
Forget holding separate shows for women and men — a number of houses are melding collections, instead hosting one show with a mix of models (and designs) all together. This season, Gucci, Vivienne Westwood, Public School, Tom Ford, Vetements, and Burberry all opted for coed showings. Many of those labels didn’t just deviate from standard fashion week practices by blending men’s and women’s collections. Tom Ford, Vetements, and Burberry are all dabbling in the whole immediate-gratification game, too, in varying capacities.
Photo: John Phillips/Getty Images.
Some Labels Eschewed Runway Shows For The Small Screen
J.Mendel and Badgley Mischka both ditched the traditional catwalk format this season in favor of a longer-lasting medium that can be tricked out with special effects and other bells and whistles: short films. The music will likely be the attention-grabbing aspect of designer Gilles Mendel’s spring ’17 film — it’s an original soundtrack by the Smashing Pumpkins’ Billy Corgan. Sounds kind of random, but Corgan is actually Mendel’s son-in-law. The two-minute film, styled by Melanie Ward, features 15 looks from Mendel’s spring collection, and it goes live on September 14.
As for Badgley Mischka’s filmic take on launching a new collection? Dubbed “The Storm,” the two-minute short went live on the brand’s site and social media channels on Tuesday, September 13, per WWD. It’s the first time in the brand’s 27-year history that they’re skipping out on the whole runway spectacle — oh, and it’s their first time test-driving the whole buy-it-now business.
Photo: Michael Stewart/WireImage.
Fausto Puglisi Is Putting On A Play, Kind Of
If you’re going to remain old school enough to stay on the ever-crowded Fashion Month lineup with an IRL showing of some sort, why not make it more of a production than a mere 10-minute runway walk? That seems to be Fausto Puglisi’s M.O. this season. In lieu of a simple catwalk format, the designer collaborated with theater company Compagnia della Fortezza’s artistic director, Armando Punzo, per WWD. The result will be a performance staged at Milan’s Derby Theater on September 21 that’s “between a theater piece and a fashion presentation, to give those attending space and time to absorb the beauty and the horror of my region [Sicily] in order to inaugurate a new way — more honest — to talk about clothes,” Pugisi told WWD. Sort of sounds like the performance pieces Opening Ceremony typically turns out in place of the usual runway shows, right?
Photo: Larry Busacca/Getty Images.
Olivier Theyskens’ Big Redux
It’s two years in the making, and details remain very scant, but Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens is back at it with his eponymous line, which will be shown during Paris Fashion Week. He’s been working on the namesake label’s relaunch since leaving his post as artistic director at Theory in 2014. This time around, Theyskens’ clothes will be “demi-couture,” as the designer termed it to Business of Fashion, priced on the higher end of RTW. The label isn’t trying anything crazy in terms of a production schedule — it’ll stick to the traditional spring and fall collection showings, per BoF. Also, the whole redux is apparently self-funded by Theyskens, versus having outside investors. Stay tuned for more details on the respected designer’s return…
Photo: Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images.
Even More Brands Are Ditching Gendered Runways
Traditionally, the four weeks of Fashion Month were solely dedicated to the presentation of women's ready-to-wear. Menswear has its own, separate (and often shorter) event unveiling the latest collections a few weeks before. The distinction felt somewhat arbitrary, but was pretty faithfully adhered to for a while. However, over the past few seasons, some brands have opted to simply combine the presentations: Labels like Vetements and Hood by Air generated a lot of buzz with unisex shows — and shortly after, big-name houses like Tom Ford, Gucci, and Public School followed suit (many choosing to present new collections during Men's Fashion Week). Vivienne Westwood recently announced a similar shift. Shortly after wrapping up spring '17, Dsquared2 declared that starting next year, it'll present its co-ed collections biannually, Business of Fashion reported. Let's see if this switch up becomes the next "see now, buy now" debate.
Photo: Estrop/Getty Images.
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